How to cultivate flow states in rock climbing

Mar 12

*Photo by Juan Diego Reyes, Phantom Spires, CA, 2017.*

“The best moments in our lives are not the passive, receptive, relaxing times . . . The best moments usually occur if a person’s body or mind is stretched to its limits in a voluntary effort to accomplish something difficult and worthwhile”
Csikszentmihalyi, 1990

You’ve likely touched this elusive and euphoric thing we call a flow state, whether on a rock climb or in the deep immersion into a thing that brings you alive. It’s that familiar moment of unwavering presence, where perception of time collapses, the world falls away, and you become completely in the zone of being.

Flow often happens in creative pursuits, learning skills and concepts, engaging in sports, taking pleasure in play, diving into focused, meaningful work, listening to soul-shaking music and more. We achieve flow states when we are completely focused on a single task. In these moments, self-consciousness dissolves and enjoyment amplifies. The concept of flow was born out of the field of positive psychology in studying the things that help humans thrive.

What are the benefits of flow states?

Flow states boast benefits that improve wellbeing. Research links flow states to

Increased regulation and attunement to one’s own emotions
Improved creativity and strategic problem solving
Ability to tap into peak performance
Sharpened focus and fewer distractions
Less self-judgment
Increased confidence and refinement of skills
Greater intrinsic motivation and joy

There is no doubt that these benefits can affect one’s rock climbing, whether you are calming your nervous system on a heady route, problem solving your way through a crux, honing your skills for the delicate sequence or tuning into your peak performance for the send. Not to mention, flow can elevate the fun in our rock climbing. So, how do we get into flow states in our climbing?

7 Tips to Get into Flow States in Rock Climbing

1. Set a clear goal

A goal that is challenging and attainable supports one’s ability to drop into flow. Goal setting that enables feedback and a clear sense of progress is essential. The ability to perceive immediate feedback allows for course correction in one’s performance.

2. Balance challenge and skill.

Too easy a task, boredom dawns. Too hard? Stress ensues. Striking the challenge-skill balance keeps you engaged and present.

3. Allow enough time.

In a culture of speed and immediate gratification, it can be easy to rush the process. Blocking off time so you can drop into presence helps enable flow.

4. Minimize interruptions

Distractions come in many forms. Notice what robs your attention, whether it’s digital, mental, environmental, relational or other. Minimizing the interruptions is key to creating and preserving flow state. Reducing distraction or irrelevant stimuli can look like:

Environmental: finding a crag that isn’t too chaotic or crowded, having your dog leashed or with an enticing toy, asking your partner(s) to be on kiddo-baby-duty.
Digital: turning off notifications on your cell phone
Mental: journaling, making a to do list, meditating, processing your experiences or emotions with a therapist or coach can be ways to reduce mental clutter and invite integration
Relational: communicating your needs with your belayer

5. Practice mindfulness without hyper-focus.

Flow follows focus. Research shows how mindfulness and meditation can initiate flow by paying attention to the present moment, without judgment. The key to effective mindfulness is discerning when you have crossed the threshold of intensity. Hyperfocus is one of the shadow sides of flow. The paradox of force is that the more we try to control, the less we wield over what we are doing. So don’t force it or over-focus, as this can narrow one’s window of perception and efficacy on the wall.

6. Set up your flow triggers.

These are the activities that bring you pleasure, curiosity, passion and presence. We can engineer flow by engaging in the things that make us feel present. For some it may be onsighting, questing up uncharted territory of a first ascent, multi-pitching in a novel or new destination, visiting your favorite crag, climbing with company you really enjoy, protecting your climbing time from interruption - these look different for all. Here’s a short video on understanding flow triggers.

7. Tap into collective flow.

Yes, it’s what happens when you hop on the send train. When fall in synchronization with others, the potential for flow is amplified. When we experience deep listening, equal participation, open communication, shared risk, or shared goals - these can trigger group flow.

Above are a few of the many ways we can begin to engineer flow states. Setting up your own flow triggers will be a unique process to you. Find what works, leave what doesn’t and ultimately have fun with the process.

Sources:

What is a Flow State and How To Achieve It via Medical News Today

8 Traits of Flow According to Mihaly Csikszentmihalyi via Positive Psychology

6 Tips to Harness the Power of Flow State at Work via Asana